“The Thought of Doing a Runway Show Now Is Just, Really?”—John Galliano Reveals His New Maison Margiela Video

This is a show, though! This is my proposal for how I’d like to show my collection. We’re just not creating a runway show. What I want to message now is that this is just the best medium. I mean, how many people get to see how toiles are made, how all the pieces of the jigsaw of a collection come together—the hair, the makeup, the music, all the process? It’s really exciting to engage young people in that process. And opening up all these platforms to engage and dialogue with people just seems so right to do. The thought of doing a runway show now is just, really?

Why did you decide to film in Tuscany?

It was always planned that we’d be shooting in London, but the new COVID-19 legislation made that impossible at the last minute. So we came to Italy. The whole team was tested on the way out, we have a medical team on the shoot 24 hours, everything is sanitized, there are masks, social distancing, as it should be.

Italian citizens are incredibly strict and observant of all the protocols, I am hearing.

Yes. We actually feel incredibly safe here. Safer than Paris or London, to tell you the truth.

 So, where did you start with this season?

I’ve put the emphasis on “artistic industrialization.” Artisanal inspires ready-to-wear, so you’ll see machines and the hand, the love and the care (of the Italian factories). They’re passionate about their work. Often, they come to the atelier, and we’ll do seminars on how we’d like a pin hem to be done. They’re so respectful of couture, and of techniques, and will try to find ways of doing it industrially. I think for some people, that’s going to be a surprise.

Watching your film in the summer, it was a revelation to be able to see you researching your subject material and to understand all the techniques of cutting you talk about. Explaining your design language, really. Where have you taken your research with this collection?

Well, it’s tango—with a new twist. I had an incredible experience in Buenos Aires, searching for the real culture of tango. It’s not what you see on the street corners, for tourists. It’s really a matter of intergenerational, private get-togethers people only know about by word of mouth. Eventually, I was very lucky to get an invitation to a place, like a warehouse. It was dark; there were black cats running everywhere; rain was falling through the roof open to the night sky. And upstairs, there was a gentleman, maybe in his 80s, hair slicked back, in a suit fitted to an inch of his life—dancing with a young girl dressed in hip-hop clothes. He was probably her grandfather. Passing it on.

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